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The Two Brasil Blend, or the Art of the American Espresso


I wonder how many times Ken Nye tasted Alphabet City Blend as espresso when he decided to carry it at 9th St Espresso. After all, it’s his own custom blend, so there couldn’t possibly have been anyplace for him to go and try it. And from the “sound of it”: http://topics.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/03/16/fresh-intelligentsia/ he decided to make the switch before he tried it, and then tasted and tweaked the components of the coffee with Intelligentsia to get to the final product. Sure, an experienced coffee professional will, to a certain extent, be able to translate coffee taste and quality from the cupping table to espresso, but as any good barista will tell you, it takes time living and working with an espresso to get the most out of it.

Alphabet City is currently a blend of two Brazils, a newish American trope. Italians would never recognize a two bean all Brazil blend as espresso: Traditional Italian espresso is generally a blend of beans (usually 3 or more) from different countries. Like the Alphabet City blend, Madcap’s Third Coast espresso blend is also made up of two Brazil’s. Intelligentsia’s Black Cat has been, over the last few years a blend of Brazil’s, with a washed component from another origin to add high notes. The comparison between these three coffees is very interesting.

Alphabet City and Third Coast taste like The Black Cat From Four Years Ago (all capitals, because it’s kind of legendary – people really loved the Black Cat from then, but for all anyone knows, people are going to remember todays’ Black Cat the same way). A lot of big chocolate, with some fruit jam: Third Coast is all grape jelly, while the Alphabet City has a lot of plum on it.

Personally, I have a soft spot for that style of American espresso. Lovely as a ristretto, and as an ultra-micro-mini ristretto (.5-.75oz) it produces a clean, elegant and refined beverage that is full of flavor and syrupy texture. In a cappuccino (I tried it competition style, half a double, and the requisite amount of textured milk), it is sweet with a soft winey character (Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, e.g.).

Our supply of Alphabet city is all gone now, but we will definitely be serving it again.

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